What are the Differences in modern regulator rectifiers?
Aftermarket regulator rectifiers are not always identical to your oem regulator rectifier. There could be a difference in the amount of wires and or colors of the wires. After installing a new aftermarket regulator rectifier, and charging issues continue to persist, then you should try using the flow chart that we provide through our FAQ page.
The simplest stator test would be to test the stator output at 5k RPMS.
At 5k RPMS your stator should be putting out between 50 -75 Volts* through each lead Combination.
Label each stator lead (3 wires, generally yellow) A, B, C respectively.
Test Wire combinations
A> B
B> C
A >C
If your stator is good, then you will see the same with each of the tests above.
When stator the stator with the engine off is to check continuity between all three legs, readlings should be farly consistent. There should be NO continuity to ground(any three wires to engine case).
You can test a regulator rectifier by performing a reverse bias test.
Label the input stator wires on the regulator A,B, and C
Label the power and the negative wire on the regulator rectifier D, and E respectively.
Just use an ohm-meter, and connect the ohmmeter to the ends of each of the diodes and check the resistance in both directions. The resistance should be low in one direction and very high in the opposite direction. The exact specs are usually given in most shop manuals. A general guideline for testing most diodes is to have 5 - 40 ohms of resistance in the forward bias direction (where the current is allowed to flow), and infinite resistance in the reverse bias direction (where the current isn't allowed to flow).
Testing the rectifier involves attaching the black probe of the meter to the ground side of the rectifier(E) and the red probe of the meter to each of the three contacts ( A, B, C) . Record the numbers. Then swap around the meter leads (red and black are swapped) and take the readings again. You have thus measured the ground side of the regulator rectifier.
Testing the battery side( D) of the rectifier involves attaching the meter probes to the battery side of the rectifier and testing the doides in the same way as just described. Once that is done, you should have about twelve readings that are the forward and reverse bias measurements for each of the doides.
Stators are fairly simple and their problems fall in to two categories: shorts and opens. Shorts can be from winding to winding or from winding to ground AKA "Short to Ground".
a) Winding to winding shorts are tested with a AC volt meter from pin to pin on stator plug with the motor running. Check service manual for proper voltage specs at given rpm. The best way to test for shorts to ground is with a 12 volt test light.Check from each stator pin to ground. If the light lights the stator is bad, there should not be any continuity from either stator pin to ground. Sometimes an ohms meter will not pick up a short to ground. The light test is the perferred testing instrument. Then Measure AC amps between stator and regulator.
b) Open stators have no AC voltage output. The Shunt drop regulators draw full AC amps all the time and no e
Stators are fairly simple and their problems fall in to two categories: shorts and opens. Shorts can be from winding to winding or from winding to ground AKA "Short to Ground".
a) Winding to winding shorts are tested with a AC volt meter from pin to pin on stator plug with the motor running. Check service manual for proper voltage specs at given rpm. The best way to test for shorts to ground is with a 12 volt test light.Check from each stator pin to ground. If the light lights the stator is bad, there should not be any continuity from either stator pin to ground. Sometimes an ohms meter will not pick up a short to ground. The light test is the perferred testing instrument. Then Measure AC amps between stator and regulator.
b) Open stators have no AC voltage output. The Shunt drop regulators draw full AC amps all the time and no extra load is needed. Series pass regulators will be necessary to load the DC system to achieve full AC amps. Put a DC volt meter and extra loads across the battery. Add load until battery voltage drops below 13 volts with the motor above 2500 rpm. Read AC meter and compare to service manual specs. Low output indicates a stator or possibly a rotor problem. Rotor problems are rare in most motocycle with the exception on The late 1970s- early 1980s Honda CB line. It is alos possible the magnets do get weak or become loose in some other varieties of motorcycles.
xtra load is needed. Series pass regulators will be necessary to load the DC system to achieve full AC amps. Put a DC volt meter and extra loads across the battery. Add load until battery voltage drops below 13 volts with the motor above 2500 rpm. Read AC meter and compare to service manual specs. Low output indicates a stator or possibly a rotor problem. Rotor problems are rare in most motocycle with the exception on The late 1970s- early 1980s Honda CB line. It is alos possible the magnets do get weak or become loose in some other varieties of motorcycles.
How to test your System Voltage? The easiest and fastest way to determine if the charging system is operating satisfactorily is with a digital volt meter. Connect the volt meter across the battery before starting the bike. A fully charged battery should read 12.7 volts at 72degrees F. Anything less indicates a battery that needs charging or has other problems. Start the bike and allow it to run at a high idle for a minute or two to recharge the battery after starting if electrical stator was used. Turn on accessories used in normal operation (not turn signals or horn). If you get between 13.8 and 14.8 VDC (depending on model) you can assume the charging system is keeping up (as long as there is not a intermittent problem).
